Rajasthan And Goa Convene On A Plate: Chef Anumitra Ghosh Dastidar Unfolds The Flavours Of Godawan Whisky

An ingredient-driven take on an Indian-made alcohol has taken us via odd paths and byways to an interesting place. As Edible Archives, the award-winning restaurant and research project, we are used to putting ingredients front and centre in the work we do, which is why the idea of an Indian whisky made with six-row (6R) barley intrigued us so much. Usually, 6R barley is used for beer, rather than for whisky, which in Scotland originally used three-row barley varieties. Godawan, named after the now critically endangered Great Indian Bustard, takes matters a step further and uses the 6R barley to make their single malts. 

While barley as a whole is one of the most ancient grains known in India, appearing at Indus Valley archaeological excavation sites, it has seen various metamorphoses over the millennia, alongside multiple waves of its migration into and out of the subcontinent, so while modern 6R barley isn’t necessarily a native grain, it has been grown in Rajasthan for centuries, it can thrive in arid areas and is viewed as an Indian barley. This Indian barley typically offers a slightly different grain character, due to its terroir, which can influence the whisky, particularly when it comes to single malts, which rely on a sole grain. We were astonished at both the texture and sweetness of the single malts made with this barley.  

Exploring The Godawan Identities

Both Godawan 01, Rich & Round and Godawan 02, Fruit & Spice are on the sweeter side, for single malts, with differing intensities and mouthfeels.  The distillers also use jatamansi and rasana, flowering plants grown locally in Rajasthan, to add perfume-like botanicals, giving the varieties floral and fruit-like notes. When we tasted the whiskies, we could imagine a multitude of pairing options, at different places across the subcontinent and abroad, in different seasons, and around different culinary traditions. Out of the rain of possibilities, from Korean vegetable ban chan to freshly-caught deep-fried topshe fish, eaten in Bengal; from khapa: pork cooked with ginger, garlic and khar from the Rabha community at the borders of Assam and Garo Hills, to Rajasthan’s creamy, mildly spiced safed maas, we narrowed it down to two main streams. What avatar would these whiskies take in a lush Goan monsoon? And how would they appear in a cold North Indian winter? 

The Meeting Point Of Goa And Rajasthan

In today’s piece, we focus on the Goan monsoon: a time of heavy rain, rough seas, and turning inward from the elements. In this season, fruits and vegetable shops contract, and everyone turns to the plethora of purumenth (a typically Goan tradition where families stock up on dried and preserved goods in anticipation of a heavy monsoon): preserved, sundried and pickled foods that were traditionally used through the monsoons. Of course, there are some seasonal products, including fish and vegetables, but the stereotypical idea of Goan cuisine no longer applies. Monsoon in Goa is the perfect time to spend indoors: listen to the rain on the tiled roofs and the wind whipping through the coconut fronds, backed by the roar of the distant sea. Kick back with some warm pao from the podder who has peddled past in his yellow raingear, and dream up a meal laced with whisky from sunnier climes.

Pairings

Brie/Camembert: Explore traces of Goa’s global heritage through the fresh cheeses made in small shops around the state. These two creamy cheeses nevertheless have bold enough flavours that they can be paired with whisky; in particular, the light mouthfeel of Godawan 01, Rich & Round, complements the creaminess of the cheese. Traditionally, these cheese varieties are paired with fresh fruit; here, they accentuate the depth of Godawan 01, Rich & Round’s lingering fruitiness and the light floral tinges of jatamansi.

Chocolate Choriz Bruschetta: Fresh umami-rich Goan choriz, with its vinegary notes is an iconic ingredient; here we’re sharing Edible Archives’ recipe for an innovative chocolate pairing:

• Remove & discard the casing of the choriz and crumble the insides. Cook with minced onion, ginger & garlic. Add a little red wine, and cook further till it becomes like a paste. 
• Spread on toasted katre (butterfly) pao, which is a little firmer and holds its shape better than other pao varieties. Sprinkle with grated dark (minimum 70%) chocolate. Serve warm.

The pungent flavours and fat content of the choriz are balanced by Godawan 1’s honey and clove notes on the back foot, while also bringing out the black cherry highlights of the cacao. 

Robiolo Cheese on Knokkebrote crackers with Gherkins and Chilli flakes: A creamy, spreadable white cheese, Robiolo, sprinkled with chopped gherkins and chilli flakes complements the crisp, multigrain Scandinavian-style crackers sold under the Knokkebrote brand, but manufactured locally in Goa. The combination of rich cream and sharp gherkin & chilli highlights Godawan 2’s warmth and spice, while perfectly complementing its buttery mouthfeel.

Clams with Portuguese Lime: The excellence of seasonal clams needs nothing more than a quick toss with olive oil, garlic cloves, sea salt and tarvotti chillies over high heat. Finish the dish with a squeeze of the thin-skinned, orange-hearted Portuguese lime after taking the clams off the fire. The taste of the sea encapsulated in this dish is a contrast to that of the whisky, but Godawan 01, Rich & Round’s light straw air and medium dry finish can hold the complexity of the jus. 

Pan-fried Leppo: This distinctive fish crisps up beautifully when pan-fried; its mild seafood flavours activate the characteristic notes of Godawan 2, allowing you to taste the complex hints of spice amid its creamy toffee texture.  

Prawn Balchao: This ubiquitous prawn dish serves as chutney, pickle and bar snack with equal elan. Its spicy pungency is a major contrast to the floral fruity notes of Godawan 1 – at first sip. Then with each sip, the whisky’s lingering notes of black pepper, clove, sage and cardamom are elicited more clearly and deeply with every bite of the balchao.

Smoked Choriz: A Goan classic, the complex aromas and umami of choriz smoked to enhance its longevity through the monsoon perfectly complement Godawan 2’s buttery mouthfeel and peppery notes 

Breadfruit with Teffal Salt: Monsoon sees the second fruiting of the breadfruit, its starchy green fruit appearing in markets and gardens alike, while teffal, a Goan spice berry that is a close cousin to Sichuan pepper, is dried and saved for the rainy months to pep up fish curries and veg dishes. For a hearty snack: 

• Peel and slice the fruit into 1/2 in ‘toasts’; rub with regular salt and pepper and let them sit for 10-15 mins to leak some of the excess water. 
• Meanwhile, dry roast dried teffal berries in a hot pan, and crush the husks in a mortar and pestle, along with some sea salt. (The hard berries will not get crushed easily and can be saved for later.) 
• Heat groundnut oil with garlic cloves and then remove the garlic. Fry the breadfruit slices on both sides and serve with a sprinkling of teffal salt.  

The combination of these specifically Goan flavours – the sharp astringent taste of the teffal, with its undertones of tingly citrus, and the starchy fullness of the breadfruit are a great contrast to the fruitiness of Godawan 01, Rich & Round’s flavours, as well as a pleasant complement to its earthy finish.  

Roasted Breadfruit with Nutmeg Butter: Change up the same seasonal breadfruit with Godawan 2’s more oaky character which is highlighted by an unexpected dash of nutmeg, brought from the Spice Islands centuries ago and flourishing in the Konkan. For this dish: 

• Chop the breadfruit into chunks and lightly saute in a cast-iron pan, along with salt and a scant half-teaspoonful of sugar. 
• When half cooked, add butter and generous gratings of nutmeg; cover and cook further on low heat, so that the butter is absorbed and the breadfruit doesn’t dry out.      

The rich nutty sweet spice of this version brings out the complex starches of the breadfruit and pairs well with Godawan 2’s lingering finish, with a dash of roasted coffee beans

Aldona Pork Glazed with Godwan 1 and Native Bee Honey alongside pan-fried Akur fronds: Monsoon lushness comes to your plate with the new fronds of akur, a mangrove plant that is only edible at the height of the monsoon rains. Let its succulence bring out the corresponding silkiness of slow-cooked pork from Goan black pigs, highlighted by the sweet floral notes of Godawan 01, Rich & Round and native bee honey. Pair with Godawan 2’s smoky earthy flavours to round off the palate.

Bread and Butter Pudding: A childhood favourite reimagined, this recipe calls for Goan pao, fresh butter, sultanas, and a dash of Godawan 01, Rich & Round, to elevate it to sophisticated luxury. Pair it with Godawan 02, Fruit & Spice to really bring out the richness of the dessert with its silky smooth finish.

Next week: pairings for a frigid North Indian evening!

*Drink Responsibly. This communication is for people over the age of 25